1 - Kufamba neCamino de Santiago - My Way
Mweya weCamino de Santiago ndeyokuti munhu wose anofamba Camino yavo pachavo. Tose tinogona kutungamirirwa kuSantiago, asi zvinangwa zvedu uye mararamiro atinoita ikoko zvichasiyana. Heino nyaya yeCamino yangu.
Ndakasarudza kufamba kubva kuSarria , kureba kwakaderera kunoda kuwana Compostela chiiti. Ndaizofamba makiromita 10 kusvika ku16 (makiromita matanhatu kusvika kumatanhatu) panzvimbo pemuganhu weBrierley wakatarisa wemakiromita makumi maviri kana makumi mana pazuva (13 kana kupfuura maira). Ndakanga ndava nemapfupa emabvi anonzi arthritis kare kare mugore raitungamirira kusarudzo iyi.
Ndaida kunakidza nguva yangu paCamino pasina kuomeswa kwekuwana nzvimbo dzekugara. Pane kugara paAlbergues (pilgrim Hostels), ndakabhadharana naCaminoWays.com avo vakaronga kuti ndaigara kupi usiku humwe uye ndakatakura chikamu chimwe chete ikoko zuva rimwe nerimwe. Nenzira iyi, ndaikwanisa kufamba nemutambo wezuva chete. Chikwata chechiedza chinogona kubatsirawo kudzivirira kurwadziwa kwegondo kweArthritis.
Ndakasarudza kufamba Camino ndoga, ndakatsigirwa nevamwe vafambi kuti nzira kubva kuSarria yaifamba zvakanaka uye ini ndaizova ndoga ndoga sarudzo.
Kuvaka mune rimwe rekufamba kwekukurumidzira, ndakagara usiku hwandakanga ndauya kuSpain muSantiago de Compostela ndisati ndaenda kuSarria.
2 - Kuenda kuSarria Kutanga Camino de Santiago
Ndakamhanya kuMadrid uye ndakava nerwendo rwokubatanidza kuSantiago de Compostela. Kubva ipapo, unogona kutora bhazi kana tekisi ku Sarria.
Dai ndakanga ndichifamba nehomwe yepilgrim musaga, ndingadai ndakatora bhazi. Zvisinei, ndaive nehomwe huru uye ndakafunga kuti zvakanga zviri nyore kutora cab (kunyange izvi zvinodhura, $ 150 euro). Kune rimwe bhazi rinotarisa reMonbus kamwe kamwe pazuva kubva kuSantiago kusvika kuSarria, kubva pa18: 00 uye kutora 2:45. Kana iwe unogona kutora bhazi reEmpresa Freire kuenda kuLugo uye ipapo tekisi kana bhasi rekuenda kuSarria. Zvisarudzo izvi zvinotora maawa matatu asi hazvina mari.
Pashure pokurara usiku hwose kuHospederia San Martin Pinario, ndakanakidzwa kuenda 9 misa kuMathedral yeSantiago de Compostela. Yakanga yakabatwa muchitendero chepamusoro uye yakaitwa muchiSpain, ine vanenge vanenge 15. Yaiva nzira yakanakisisa yekuropafadza rwendo rwangu.
Mutyairi wangu wetekisi akataura Sipanishi chete asi ini ndaifarira maawa maviri motokari uye ndaona kumaruwa wandichakurumidza kufamba. The Camino akayambuka migwagwa yataive pane imwe nguva saka ndakaona peregrinos (vafambi) vachifamba. Rwendo rwuri mumigwagwa inoyerera, uye ndaifara kuti ndakanga ndisiri pabhasi sezvo ini ndichiwana kurwara uye ini ndingave ndisingagoni kugara pamberi.
Ndaifara chaizvo pandakauya uye ndakasimuka kuCamino kune maonero aya uye marker.
3 - Camino Day Zero - Sarria
Sarria ndiyo nzvimbo yakakurumbira yekutanga yeCamino, sezvo iwe unogona kuwana makoti ako eChippostela kana uchifamba makiromita zana ekupedzisira (62 makiromita), uye Sarria iri 111 makiromita kubva kuSantiago de Compostela. Sarria iguta revanhu 13 500 uye ine mabasa akawanda.
I albergues (pilgrim hostels) muSarria iri muguta rekare iri pedyo neCamino. Nokugadzirira neCamino Ways, ndakagara muimba yega yega kumahotera maduku nekasa rurales panzvimbo yea albergues. My hotel in Sarria yaiva Alfonzo IX, parwizi rwuri pedyo nemakiromita 112 makera eCamino. Guta rekare raiva anenge makiromita kure, kukwira.
Ndakamira nechitoro cheArisand muSarria uye ndakatora foni isina mari uye SIM kadi yekushandisa panguva yerwendo rwangu. Sezvazvakazoitika, iPhone yangu 6 neyekufamba-famba kwenyika (data dzemagetsi yakavharwa) yakashanda zvakare.
Ndakanga ndava kudya kwemafirimu matatu kune imwe hotera yangu uye zvikamu zvakanga zvakakura. Ndingadai ndave ndichingofara neyekutanga-saladi saladi, iyo yaisanganisira tuna. Chingwa, waini, uye dessert zvinosanganiswa mumutengo. Aya mazana matatu akatengesa mutengo wekufambisa kwezvokudya ndeyepamusoro pamwe neCamino.
4 - Camino Zuva Rimwe - Kubva ku Sarria
Zuva rangu rokutanga pamusoro peCamino raiva musi waSeptember 11, 2015. Sunrise pakati peSeptember kuNorth Westwest Spain haisi kusvika 8 am, uye ndakanga ndisingakurumidze sezvo ndaifamba zvishoma zuva rimwe nerimwe. Handina kutanga kusvikira 9:30 mangwanani
Yaiva zuva rakanaka. Mambakwedza yakatanga zvishoma foggy, asi iyo yakabviswa neiraira yekutanga. Kuchena kunenge kuri pakati pemakore makumi manomwe eEF kusvika pakati pemasikati.
Pakutanga ndichikwira nomuguta ndaona vashoma zvikuru vamwe peregrinos, sezvakawanda zvakatanga kare. Iwe unogona chaizvo kutaura kuti ndiani akanga ane bhegi ravo akatakurwa uye aive akatakura zvinhu zvose. Ndakanga ndiine nguva yekupedzisira-kutanga bhagi-shippers, vazhinji vavo vakanga vachitangawo kuSarria.
Iyo Camino inoratidzwa nejeri miseve uye Camino scallop shell graphics. Kiraira imwe neimwe (uye makiromita akawanda kubva kumakiromita) inotsanangurwa nematombo anocherechedza mabhesi akasiyiwa kuKathedral yeSantiago de Compostela.
Ndaifara uye ndakanetseka kuti ndifambe tsoka paCamino pakupedzisira sa pilgrim. Ini zvino ndava peregrina!
5 - Camino - Stamping the Credencial with the Sello
Paunofamba muCamino kubva kuSarria, unofanirwa kudonha chikwereti chako kaviri pazuva kuti akuratidze kufamba uchienderera mberi. Lodgings, machechi, mazariro nemakamuri paCamino vane sello matampu.
Ndakatora chidhi changu chekutanga pahotera muSarria. Ndine chikwata chechipiri pachitsiga chekumhara. Iwe unofanirwa kunyorera zuva rechitema chimwe nechimwe.
Sezvandakanga ndaswedera kuSantiago mazuva apfuura, ndakaona kuti mazariro pandakanga ndakamira kwemasikati aiva nesero. Asi chiratidzo (muchiSpanish) chakati hachizoremekedzwa mune zvekuda. Izvi zvinokonzerwa nebha iri iri mumugwagwa mukuru, umo vasati vafambi vanogona kunge vachigadzirisa zvikwereti zvavo.
6 - Camino Day One - Terrain neRoma Bridge
Nzvimbo iri paCamino kubva kuSarria inogara yakazara, neyemarudzi ose epamusoro kubva pamatombo ematombo kuenda kune asphalt kumatombo maduku kusvika pamatombo. Ichokwadi inoda nzira dzekutora shangu pane zvingwa zvematambo, kudzivirira tsoka dzako kubva pamatombo. Ndaipfekedza Brooks Cascadia zvishoma nezvishoma zvishoma nezvishoma zvishoma nezvishoma zvakagadziriswa shangu sezvakakurudzirwa nevamwe vafambi, uye vakashanda zvikuru kwandiri.
Vazhinji vekufambira vanoshandisawo matanda kana tambo yekufamba. Ini kazhinji ndaiwana izvi zvakakosha pane iyi chikamu cheCamino, asi ndakaishandisa. Ndinoda kuwedzera kwavanoita, uye vangave vakadzivisa tsvina kana maviri.
Mushure mokudarika nguva yeRoma yemahombe bhiriji taive mumapango / mapurazi. Fungidzira mauto eRoma achifamba munzvimbo ino, uye nhoroondo yakadzama yevanhu vaigara pano. VaRoma vakanga vari pano makore mazana maviri pamberi peguva reSt. James vakawanikwa uye pilgrimage yeCamino yakatanga.
Pakatokona anenge 3K mukati mokufamba makanga pane nzvimbo yekugara (Camino matampu) uye pano ini ndakapfuurirwa nevana vana pamakomo mabhasikoro akapfekedzwa mumagetsi edzimba. Vaviri vavo vakanga vakapfekedza chidzitiro zvachose pamusoro pemisoro yavo uye chiso, vachiita sevakashambadza varume vashoma vemavara. Vaive maiva nemakwikwi akasiyana-siyana ini ndakaona paCamino.
7 - Camino Zuva Rimwe - Musangano Pamwe Peregrinos
Chimwe chekukurudzira kwangu kufamba Camino solo ndechekusangana nevamwe peregrinos. Ndakataura neboka revafambi vemapurisa vakave vari kubva mumutsipa wangu wehuni, Northwest USA.
Takapinda mune guru vista uye denga rebhuruu rairatidza kuburikidza nemhepo. Ndakatapudzwa nevarume vechidiki vaviri vokuMexico vakanga vachikandira bhora bhora pose pose, uye mumwe aive nevashandi vemapurusi vaibhururuka vachibhururuka mureza weMexico.
Pamba, ndinoteerera podcasts kana mabhuku ehurukuro pavanenge ndichifamba, asi paCamino ndakanga ndisina kubviswa. Ndakafunga kuti zvakakosha kuti ndikwanise kutaura nevanhu uye kuti ndiwane nzvimbo. Mapurgrim anowanzokwazisana ne "Buen Camino!" sezvavanopfuura. Ndakanga ndisingadi kurasikirwa nemukana wega wekutaurirana nevamwe uye kunzwa shiri nemhepo mumiti.
MaPergrinos akabatanidza vanhu vakawanda vasati vasvika pakuberekwa, asiwo vakawanda vevanhu vaduku. Ndakapfuura mumwe murume akwegura-kupfuura-ini weAmerica uyo akanga ari kutambura chaizvo. Ndakakurudzira gal kuti iite nyore. Gare gare musi iwoyo vakabata kwandiri paa cafe uye ndakaona akanga achinyengetera rosary sezvaaifamba.
Mumusha weVilei vaine imwe tampu uye imba yakanaka ine Camino mementos uye zvinhu. Ndakataura nemukadzi aibva kuPortland, Oregon uyo aifamba nevanakomana vake. Murume wake ane makore 83 aive nemotokari kuzosangana navo pavanogara mumba mausiku humwe.
Ndakanga ndisingawanzooneki kune vamwe vafambi venguva yakazara nguva yangu paCamino, kunyange zvazvo yakanga isina kumbobvira yakazara.
8 - Camino Day One - Chechi yeBarbadelo
Musha wakatevera waiva Barbadelo. Ndakapinda muchechi yeRoma yeSantiago de Barbadelo. Ndakaona mazuva akasiyana-siyana mairi, kubva muzana remakore rechitanhatu kusvika kuzana remakore rechi12. Makore maviri akapfuura bhasi redu rekufambisa rakatamira pano, rakagamuchira chikomborero chepilgrim, ndokufamba makiromita mashanu kuCamino.
Uyu mupirisita wekare wandakaonana naye makore maviri zvisati apfuura akanga ari kutsika zvidzidzo. Ndakatenga kenduru ye euro imwe. Akairaira uye ndakaiisa paatari. Ndakanyengeterera kuchengeteka uye nehutano hwehama dzangu.
9 - Camino Zuva Rimwe - Minda uye Masango
Zvinonakidza kufamba mumigwagwa yakasviba / mazhenje akasvibiswa nemakore zana emakore oak nemapurani. Kazhinji nzira yacho yakakonzerwa nemasvingo ematombo.
Iri zuva rokutanga raiva rakadziya, asi kutonhora kwaive kuchiri pakati pe-70F. Zvaive zvakanaka kuti uve nomumvuri uye ini ndakabvisa mabhodhoro emabhuruku angu akachinjwa (ayo aiita seechipfeko chakakwana chepa pereginos).
10 - Camino Day One - Farms naHórreo
Kune mhou dzakawanda mumafuro (uye marisi-mhepo inonhuwira) uye huku mumapurazi. Iwe unodarika matura anokosha uye matura.
Chimwe chinhu chinowanzoonekwa muGalicia ndiyo hórreos - granary mabarns akaiswa pamatanda kana mbiru. Sezvavanowanzobatwa nemuchinjikwa, iwe pakutanga unogona kufunga kuti ihwo humwe mausoleum kana shrine. Asi vakavakwa kuti vachengetedze magweta kubva pachibage. Irofu rakafukidzwa pasi pegranari, pamusoro pezvigaro, zvakaoma kuti hove iende.
11 - Camino Zuva Rimwe - Mabhandi neKafesi
Pa Mercado (anenge makiromita mana) ndakanga ndafamba kwemaawa anenge maviri. Ndakanga ndichiita chithunzi chinomira maminetsi mashomanana. Asi iyo Camino inomhanya nguva dzose inenge makiromita maviri neawa pahupamhi, haina unhurried.
Ndakatenga kofi ye 1 euro uye ndakashandisa yekugeza. Vakanga vane WiFi yamahara, saka ndakakwanisa kuendesa paIndaneti apo ndaifunga kofi muzuva. Zvakanaka chaizvo kuti uite Camino " nzira iri nyore " uye iwe unokwanisa kumira uye kunakidzwa nezuva rinobuda mangwanani!
Nguva pfupi mushure meizvi, ndakabatana naRoxie kubva kuSan Francisco naJoanne vokuMelbourne, Australia. Vose vari Camino veterans avo vakanga vachingana pavanogara mavo usiku hwakapfuura. Vaifara kutaura navo. Joanne anoronga boka revakadzi rekambino kufamba boka muAustralia uye rinoronga kutungamirira mapoka gumi gumi anotevera.
Takafamba pamwe chete makiromita mashomanana kusvika kumagumo edu, Morgade. Takawana ipapo munenge muna2 masikati, tichikwanisa kudya kwemasikati kuSpain. Ndakanga ndiine saladhi nechechi, pamwe newaini yemo, Estrella Galicia. Zvaive zvakanaka kukurukura nemagari, uye boka reNorth West-walkers rakanga richidya kunze kuMorgade cafe. Izvowo muimba, Casa Morgade, uye shamwari dzangu mbiri itsva dzakawana makamuri ipapo.
12 - Camino Day One Ends
Pasi pacho, ndaigona kunge ndakafamba zvakawanda asi ini ndakasarudza kufamba zvishoma uye kutora nguva yangu uye kufara nezvinhu.
Ndakatumira foni kuimba yangu yekugara usiku, O Foilebar guesthouse, a casa rurale. Ndakasarudzwa muMorgade nemunyori uyo akanga ari mutungamiriri wemhuri-yeimba yeimba uye akatora makiromita gumi kubva kune imwe. Ndaifara kwazvo kuona kuti bhegi rangu raitakura rakanga rauya zvechokwadi. Izvi zvaive nguva dzose mumwendo wangu.
Imba yepurazi yematombo yakanga yakanaka uye imba yangu yakanga yakakura nemadziro ematombo uye mubhedha mana. Icho chakanga chiri chimiro chekuda. Mwanasikana chete ndiye aitaura Chirungu, asi takataura zvakanaka. Ndinofanira kurova zvidzidzo zveSpanish zvakanyanya ndisati ndaenda rwendo rutsva!
Dambudziko racho nderokuti ndakanga ndisipo mune imwe nzvimbo kuti ndichinge ndasangana nevamwe vafambi uye ndaidya solo patafura muimba yavo yokudyira. Mambakwedza ndakasangana nababa veIrish uye mwanasikana avo vaigarawo imomo, vakagadzirwawo naCamino Ways.
Ndakafamba 22,8800 matanho ezuva, iyo inhamba yakawanda. Zuva rakatevera, ndakasvitsa 23, 700. Kana ini ndaizoita izvi sezuva rimwe chete, ndingadai ndapinza zvakawanda kupfuura zvandingaita pazuva randakafamba nehafu ye marathon.
13 - Camino Walking Day Two - Morgade kusvika kuPortomarin
Mabiko angu haana kugara zvakanaka uye dumbu rangu rairwara kutanga zuva. Asi ndaive nehurukuro yakanaka neaIreland baba / mwanasikana dhe avo vakanga vachigarawo muimba yedu yeimba. Chikudya chamangwanani chaiva chikafu chechingwa chakasvibiswa uye kafi yakasimba.
Iye zvino ndakatanga izvo zvingadai zviri chikamu chekupedzisira chemazuva maviri ekufamba mairi kubva kuSarria kusvika kuPortomarin. Kwandiri, ingadai iri 10 kana 11K nhasi (makiromita matanhatu kusvika kumanomwe).
Ndakabva ndaenda muMorgade zvishomanana pamberi pe 9 am, munguva pfupi yekuzosanganazve naRoxie naJoanne vakanga vachibuda kubva kumusha wekufa. Zvaive zvakanaka kufamba navo.
Imwezve takapfuura nepakati pemumisha pamhando dzose dzepamusoro kubva kune granite yakapwanyika kune dzimwe nzvimbo dzematombo kuAsphalt nekudzika. Takanga tisingadi kupfurikidzwa nevamwe vafambi, kwaive zuva rakaoma kwatiri.
Kwakanga kune mombe dzakawanda mumunda uye mupfudze mumugwagwa. Takaona boka riri kutorwa pasi mumugwagwa wekumwisa. Ndinoda kufamba kwenyika uye mhou, saka ndaifara zvikuru kunyange apo kunhuhwa kwemairi-hewa kwakashandurwa.
14 - Camino - Zorora Rega Nezvibereko
Takamira pazororo reviri duku rinomira rakazara nezvibereko. Iwe unogona kupa mupiro mukudzoka. Ndakanga ndava nehanzvadzi yakagamuchirwa zvikuru kune yekutanga.
Kwakanga kune vistas yakawanda pane dzimwe nguva, mitsara yakafukidzika, dzimba dzematombo nedzimba dzematombo. Pane imwe nzvimbo yekuzorora menzi, Pepe, akauya kuzotaura. Roxie akakurukura nyore muSpain uye akadzidza kuti acharamba achigadzira dzimwe dzimba dzevaenzi. Anoda kusangana nevanhu.
15 - Camino - Downhill kusvika Portomarin
Nzira inoenda kuPortomarín inosanganisira yakawanda yepamusoro pakadzika kusvika kumagumo, panzvimbo yakanaka (kunyanya kana yakaoma). Ndakarega kuendesa shamwari dzangu dzekufamba pabhiriji remazuva ano pamusoro peRwizi Miño sezvo dumbu rangu rainzwa crummy.
Bhujiro rekare reRoma kuPortomarín rakaderera kusvika pasi pemiti yemiti, uye guta rose rakadzoswa muma1960 mushure mekunge vakavaka dhamu uye vakafashura nzvimbo yekutanga yeguta.
Yakanga iri zvishoma asati apera masikati nehotera yangu, Villajardin yanditendera kupinda muimba yangu. Pane mercado pane rimwechete saka ndakatenga Gatorade uye mabhisikiti kuti ndidzozere ma electrolytes angu uye ndinowana chimwe chinotapira mukati mangu.
16 - Camino - Portomarín
Portomarín iguta remazuva ano, rakavakwazve mushure mokunge raiendesa mberi nemhaka yekuvakwa kwedhamu muma1960. Vakatamisa Gumi reChishanu reChishanu reSan Xoán de Portomarín nedombo. Iwe unogonazve kuona nhamba pamatombo. Yakavakwa senhare-chechi kuburikidza neMurairo weChristu John weJerusarema.
Iyi ndiyo inowanzoguma kumucheto wegumbo rekufamba kubva kuSarria. Ndaida kuona guta racho asi ini ndakatanga kutora nguva yakareba kuti ndibatsire kupora kubva mudumbu rangu zvinotyisa. Ndichifamba nomuguta, ndakatarisa mukati memachechi uye ndakaona apo pilgrim Misa yaizova manheru. Nzvimbo yacho yaiva nemakamuri akawanda apo peregrinos vaidya, asi handina kuona Joanne naRoxie.
Ndakaita mbatya dzangu neScrubba . Ndakariisa kunze kunze kwezuva uye pamubhedha wokuomesa muimba yekugezera. Masokisi angu akanga achiri kunyorova panguva yokurara, asi shati yangu uye zvisizvo zvakanga zvakaoma.
Zvokudya zvekudya zvinowanikwa mumugwagwa wangu weCamino Way. Ndakaenda kunodya musi we7: 15 pahotera yangu pavakashama kuti vadye. Ndakanga ndine caldo gallego muto soup (kabichi, dzimwe nyemba uye mbatata), chingwa chiduku uye flan for dessert. Ndakarega kuva nechikwata chechipiri chikuru.
Ndakasvetuka kuti ndivete muhomwe yangu yeInsect Shield . Zvichida zvakanga zvisina kudiwa kumakamuri maduku kwandaigara. Asi pamwe neCamino, ndakaona vafambi vakawanda vaine mbhedha, uye ndaida kuchengetedzwa panzvimbo yekusuruvara. Bhokisi rebhedha rinonyanya kushandiswa microfiber uye ndakaiona rakanaka muhupenyu hwangu hwose.